I idolize Ce Ce Chin, who runs her own shoe company, and built it from scratch. The name, 80%20 shoes, refers to the fact that you wear your favorite 20% of your wardrobe 80% of the time. LOVE.
Ce Ce Chin, photographed by Aaron Lee Fineman
What were the first shoes you made?
Years ago, I bought these old lady Chinatown slippers and spray-painted them with flower patterns and lace designs. I remember wearing them out to a party and having people approach me, asking where I’d gotten them. Someone at Daily Candy took notice and said, “Let’s run a story.”
She told me I needed to give her a few stores the shoes were in. I approached a few stores I knew, told them about the story, and asked if they’d place the shoes in their store. When the story ran, the stores were getting phone calls, someone from a magazine contacted me, and a couple buyers called. It really opened up doors.
Sophie, kidskin leather hidden wedge thong with side zip
Did you know you wanted to start your own business?
I always had this personal vision of having my own company. I worked in corporate fashion design, and all the people that are not-at-the-very-top have dreams of having their own lines. I’m making a generalization, but everyone’s always talking about when they’ll launch their line, or that they’re selling in a couple stores. I remember feeling this really strong sense of envy towards that. Even if someone said, “I got this belt in a magazine,” which doesn’t mean anything, it made me think, “Why don’t I have a belt in a magazine? What’s wrong with me?”.
It was a very powerful thing. I had all these personal judgements against myself that if I didn’t do it, it meant that I wasn’t that strong enough, or creative enough, or scared. I think that insecurity pushed me over the edge. When you’re afraid, the best thing to do is to face that fear.
I saved some money and prepared. I talked to a lot of people that were running their own businesses about how they quit, set myself a date, and left. I remember coming close to that date and getting scared – wondering if I was doing the right thing. You’re always going to have those conflicted feelings, but you have to choose the action that will take you farther.
Diva canvas, canvas & patent leather hidden wedge sneaker
So you’ve always wanted to have your own line – did you know it was going to be shoes?
I initially though I was going to have a handbag line. I quit a job a couple years earlier with the idea that I was going to do a bag line. But when I got out there, I wasn’t ready. I didn’t have enough structure, and I wasn’t disciplined enough about what I had to do. I ended up getting another job, maybe four months later.
Shoes happened, really, because I got such a good response on that first pair. I just kind of jumped on it. I actually flew to China for two days during my Christmas vacation, while I was still working for someone else. I’d been to China for jobs before, but never on my own. I met up with this resource that I had met online. He was really generous guy and actually drove me into China, to a factory. I ended up working with him for a couple years.
Jackie gladiator, kidskin leather hidden wedge gladiator boot with tie back
What have been the hardest business lessons you’ve had to learn?
Being creative and powerful when everything starts sliding. You have to know what you need to do to make it happen, and then be unstoppable. A lot of people complain, “Oh, I did all these things, and the store never paid me.” Well, you’re a business owner. You have to get paid. What are you going to do about it? You have to be aware that a lot of things aren’t going to go right. As soon as you accept that, it will go better.
As a business person, there is no real idealism about the work. You’re going to make something, sell it, deliver it and get paid. It might be a service, it might be a product, but you have to make sure all those things happen.
I’ve found that it helps me to set timelines laying out what I want to do. The most important timeline of all is when you are going to get into the market, and how you are going to make that happen. If you want to do a trade show in August, that means you have to have everything done by July, and materials need to be bought now. You have to be very linear. While I don’t always end up following my own timelines, they’re important to have.
You also have to really believe in what you do, and put your best effort not only into making your product, but learning how to sell it. You have to let go of things that aren’t working, even if you’re in love with them. It sounds like such a cold thing, but if nobody buys the product, it’s not as good as you thought it was. While you can still love it, that doesn’t mean its right for the market – in the end you have to stay afloat.
Jackie canvas, canvas hidden wedge boot
Was setting up an actual studio space a big jump for you?
A lot of creative people, by the nature of the work, work alone. It can be very alienating and isolating. I think having a synergy with other people, and being able to ask, “What do you think about this?” is really important. It’s what pushes you along.
I share my studio with a jewelry designer I met through a random Craigslist connection. Our businesses are quite different, but we’ve been sharing the space for about four years now. It’s fun to be with her. We’ll accept messenger packages for each other, buy each other lunch. Then we have all the people that work with us. It’s good to have other people around, even if they having nothing to do with what you’re doing.
I say get a workspace as soon as possible. I’m a real firm believer in separating work and home life. I like the idea that I have to get up, get dressed, get out of the house. I also like the idea that we start at ten, and I feel an obligation to get here. We’re open and then we close.
Melody canvas/nubuck, denim canvas & nubuck leather hidden wedge ankle bootie
What are your dreams right now, and how would you like to move the company forward?
Well, I would love to further identify the brand and move into other product. Socks and hosiery, handbags, and maybe some clothing. I would also love to have a free-standing store. A concept shop that changes its interior all the time and creates a unique space for people to be in and enjoy. I would also like to define a larger staff, so we can have operate on a bigger level. I know that doesn’t sound that sexy, but it’s really exciting.
What has been your happiest moment with 80%20?
I’m particularly proud of the spring collection that’s in stores now. I think it was kind of a creative breakthrough for me, and really took the line to another level. I cant wait ’til it gets warmer. I was in the park on Sunday, and this girl walked by wearing a pair of the slip-ons we did our first season. Those moments are great. When you see your product being used by other people – It’s a continuous joy. I’m not interesting in creating something that is going to sit in a cave. For me, the shoes are out there to help people with their lives, to bring them joy.